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Technical Bulletin
Embroidery Thread Applications
Canton Fleece | Canvas
| Childrenswear-Knits |
Coated or Waterproof Fabrics
| Corduroy | Cotton
Sheeting | Denim |
Dress Shirt (Woven) |
Golf or Polo Shirt |
Headwear |
Leather and Vinyl | Lingerie or Silk
| Lycra® or Spandex® |
Nylon Windbreaker |
Satin Jacket | Sweater
| Swimwear (Knit) |
T-Shirt | Terrycloth
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This technical bulletin
provides recommendations (weight, needle, thread, and backing) for
common embroidery applications. |
Notes:
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Signature®
is the brand name for A&E's high performance polyester embroidery
thread.
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For a Matte Finish appearance use a T-18 or
T-24 Perma Core or a T-21 or T-27 Perma Spun.
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All apparel will make
direct skin contact and should be backed with water-soluble backing, if
possible, so that the embroidery will become softer with wear and
laundering. These include golf or polo shirts, T-shirts, lingerie,
towels, and bedding
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Conversion from Metric
weights of backing: Some companies display their backing in
grams/meter instead of ounces/yard. To convert from grams
per square meter to ounces per square yard, divide the grams per square
meter by 33.9. For example, 69 grams/meter divided by 33.9 equals
2.03 ounces per square yard (or 2 ounces of backing).
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Canton Fleece
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11 Light Ball Point
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Polyester Tkt.
40
or Tkt. 30
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Light Tearaway
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Use polyester thread
if the garment is subjected to extensive laundering & bleaching,
chlorine, salt water or sunlight exposure. Tkt.30 thread may be used
to decrease needle penetrations
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Canvas
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
to Med.
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75/11
Sharp or New Round Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Medium Tearaway
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Sharp needles are
better for longer runs.
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Childrenswear-Knits
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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70/10
Light or Medium Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Medium Cutaway / Washaway
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Use polyester thread
if the garment is subjected laundering & bleaching. For a softer
feel, use a T-21 spun polyester (matte finish).
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Coated
or Waterproof Fabrics
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
Hvy.
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75/11,
80/12 Sharp or Light Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Medium
Topping and Light to Medium Tearaway
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Tkt.30 thread may be
used to decrease needle penetrations and provide the same coverage,
thereby minimizing damage to waterproofing.
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Corduroy |
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11
Light Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Medium
Topping and Light to Medium Tearaway
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Tkt.30 thread may be
used to decrease needle penetrations.
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Cotton
Sheeting
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11
Sharp or New Round Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or T-21 Cotton or Spun Polyester
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Heavy
Cutaway or Tearaway / Washaway
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CF Polyester to give
high sheen appearance. T-21 spun polyester to give soft hand and matte
appearance.
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Denim
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Hvy.
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80/12
Sharp or New Round Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Heavy
Cutaway or Tearaway / Washaway
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Use polyester thread
if the garment is subjected to extensive laundering & bleaching
and other harsh materials.
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Dress
Shirt (Woven)
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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70/10
or 75/11 Sharp Point or Light Ball Point for Small Details
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Rayon
or Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Heavy
Cutaway or Tearaway / Washaway
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Polyester
is best for white shirts that may be bleached.
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Golf
or Polo Shirt
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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70/10
or 75/11 Light or Medium Ball Point
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Rayon
or Polyester
Tkt. 40; or T-21 Spun Polyester
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Light
to Medium Cutaway (Water Soluble)
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Heavy knits require a
medium to heavy cut-away; medium knits require a light cutaway.
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Headwear
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11,
80/12 Sharp Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Medium
to Heavy Tearaway
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Polyester threads if
headwear goes through a wash process. Use 3D Foam to get more
dimension to the pattern.
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Leather
and Vinyl |
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Hvy.
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75/11
Up to a 100/16 Sharp Point Needle on Stiff or Spongy Leather
(Luggage); 70/10, 80/12 Sharp or New Round Point on Soft, Supple
Garment Leathers
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Light
Tearaway
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Tkt.30 can be used to
minimize the number of penetrations while achieving the same coverage.
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Lingerie
or Silk
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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65/9
Up to a 75/11 Ball Point Needle
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Medium Tearaway (Water Soluble)
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Recommend Polyester
because it has a higher elongation and elastic recovery than Rayon.
Also, Polyester has superior wash fastness.
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Lycra®
or Spandex® |
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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70/10
Light or Medium Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Medium
Cutaway or Water Soluble Tearaway
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Recommend Polyester
because it has a higher elongation and elastic recovery than Rayon.
Also, Polyester has superior wash fastness.
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Nylon
Windbreaker |
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
to Med.
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75/11
Sharp or New Round Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Heavy Cutaway
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Satin
Jacket
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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75/11
Sharp or New Round Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Heavy Cutaway
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Sweater
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11,
80/12 Light to Heavy Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Medium
Topping and Light to Medium Cutaway
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Swimwear
(Knit)
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
to Med.
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65/9
Up to a 75/11 Ball Point Needle
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Medium Tearaway (Water Soluble); or Medium Cutaway
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Use polyester threads
for garments that will be subjected to extensive laundering &
bleaching, chlorine, salt water or sunlight exposure.
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T-Shirt
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Lt.
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70/10
or 75/11 Light or Medium Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
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Light
to Medium Tearaway (Water Soluble); or Medium Cutaway
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Terrycloth
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Wt.
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Needle
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Thread
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Backing
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Comments
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Med.
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75/11,
80/12 Light to Heavy Ball Point
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Polyester
Tkt. 40
or Tkt. 30
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Medium
Topping and Light to Medium Tearaway
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Use polyester thread
to maintain colorfastness. Tkt.30 can be used to minimize the number
of penetrations while achieving the same coverage.
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Other
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