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  Technical Bulletin
Embroidery Defects Checklist
After Sewing | Before Sewing | During Sewing | Introduction | Pre-production Sample
 
 
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Introduction

Below are helpful embroidery checklists to assist you in producing quality embroidery from the pre-production step to the final inspection step of your finished embroidery pattern.


Pre-production Sample

Has a reputable digitizer digitized the pattern?
  • For the fabric being sewn?

  • Using proper stitch selection?

  • Could the garment design & embroidery placement have an impact on hooping?

  • Does the design look correct and is it legible?

  • Note correct characteristics below:
Correct? Characteristics

Spelling & Lettering
  • Lettering type clear and easily readable?

  • Capital or small case, font, spaced properly?

  • Size, boldness, height & weight?

Color 
  • Correct color being used for each part of the embroidery pattern?
Thread Type
  • Correct type of thread (rayon, polyester, metallic, spun) to give the desired appearance & end-use requirements?

    • High sheen appearance (Rayon, Polyester, Metallic)? 

    • Low sheen or “mate” or “dull” appearance (Spun Polyester, Cotton)? 

    • Resistance to fading after laundry (Polyester)? 

    • Specialty threads required (Metallic, variegated, space dyed)? 

Design
  • Is the design balanced? 

  • Embroidery too busy (Too much Information in too small of an area)? 

  • Is the finished size of the embroidery pattern (i.e. 1 ½” high by 2 ¾” wide) correct? 

  • Top heavy or lopsided in appearance?

Specifications
  • Meets specifications for the exact placement of the embroidery pattern on the finished product? 

  • Measurements from safe reference points easy to follow? 

Before Sewing

  • Has the correct backing been selected?

  • Are any toppings or facings required? 

  • Does the work order have the appropriate information regarding starting points, etc.?

  • Have the proper embroidery thread types, sizes and colors been selected and have they been loaded in the appropriate needle positions?

  • Have the correct needle types and sizes been selected?

  • Have all bobbins been replaced to minimize bobbin changes?

  • Can the product being embroidered be “hooped” or “framed” properly?

  • Are clear measurements available for proper placement of the embroidery on the sewn product?

During Sewing

  • How often does the thread break? 

  • Are other threads available to minimize interruptions?

  • How often does the bobbin run out of thread? 

  • Are bobbins available with more yards per bobbin to minimize bobbin run-out?

  • Does the stitch balance look consistent from color to color on the design?

  • Are machine thread tensions adjusted consistently from bobbin to bobbin, from needle thread color to needle thread color?

  • Is the machine speed optimum for the pattern being sewn? 

  • Can higher machine speeds be used to reduce cycle times?

  • Can the stitch density be reduced without causing “grin-through” and maintaining stitch appearance?

  • Are the embroidery machines being utilized with minimum non-sewing time?

After Sewing

  • Does the embroidery have the proper registration? 

  • Was the fabric properly hooped to minimize distortion of the fabric that the pattern was sewn in to? 

  • Was the embroidery pattern aligned and positioned properly on the sewn product? 

  • Does there appear to be excessive "pull" causing "grin-through" or distortion of the sewn pattern? 

  • Are all points clean with corners finished properly? 

  • Are any parts of the embroidery too bulky or thick? 

  • Are there any threads that were not trimmed properly? Is there any fabric "grin through" or "gapping"? 

  • Are there any missed stitches due to thread breakage that need to be repaired? 

  • Are stitches formed properly (not too loose or too tight)? 

  • Signs of looping or malformed stitches?

  • Signs of poor tension control? 

  • Bobbin thread seen on topside of embroidery? 

  • Thread tension set so 2/3-needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread seen on backing side of embroidery on satin stitches? 

  • Is there any damage to the fabric caused by the needle size or too many stitches sewn in the same area of the pattern? 

  • Excessive puckering or drawing up of the pattern? 

  • Are there excessive hoop marks that need to be steamed away?

 

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