Stitch Terminology Glossary

ISO# 101 (Chainstitch): Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlooping with itself on the underside of the seam with the assistance of a spreader.

ISO# 103 (Blindstitch): Stitch is formed with one needle thread which interloops with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating the full depth.

ISO# 301 (Lockstitch): Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same on the top as well as the bottom.

ISO# 301 (Twin Needle Lockstitch): Same s 301 except that two rows of stitch are formed. Typical needle spacing is 1/4? but the machines are available from 3/16? up to 1?.

ISO# 304 (Zig Zag): Stitch is formed with a needle and bobbin thread that are set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical zig zag pattern. Also used to identify bartacking and lockstitch buttonsewing and buttonholing.

ISO# 401 (Chainstitch): Stitch formed by 1 needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1 looper thread that is set on the underside of the seam.

ISO# 401 (Twin Needle Chainstitch): Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooped with 2 looper threads, forming 2 independent rows of stitch set on the underside of the seam.
ISO# 406 (Bottom Coverstitch): Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom side.

ISO# 407 (Bottom Coverstitch): Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlacing with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.

ISO# 503 (Overedge): Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread forming a purl on the edge of the seam. For Serging or Blindhemming only.

ISO# 504 (Overedge): Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam. For Overedge Seaming and Serging.

ISO# 505 (Overedge): Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads forming a double purl on the edge of the seam. For Serging only.

ISO# 512 (Overedge): Stitch formed with 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam. 512-right needle only enters the upper looper loop. This stitch type will not chain-off as well as the 514 Stitch.

ISO# 514 (Overedge): Stitch formed with 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam. 514-both needles enter the upper looper loop. Preferred over the 512 Stitch because it chains-off better.

ISO# 516 (Safety Stitch): 5-thread safety stitch. Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle chainstitch (401) and a 3-thread overedge stitch (504) that are formed simultaneously.

ISO# 602 (Coverstitch): Stitch is formed with 2-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.

ISO# 605 (Coverstitch): Stitch is formed with 3-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.

ISO# 607 (Coverstitch): Stitch is formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread. Preferred over 606 stitch because the machine are easier to maintain.